jamaica necklace
Coiled links with colored wrapped pearls.
By Lynda Fullerton
I hope you have as much fun with these freeform wrapped links as I do. They give your jewelry some weight and substance, while still allowing a delicate side. A rubbed patina gives a rustic look, while shiny metal gives a more elegant feel. The links have some flexibility so they're not too stiff, and they have a kind of organic way about them. I have a fantasy that some day I'll make a full five-strand necklace out of beads and these links...or maybe a seven-strand bracelet!
tools & sup plies
• 18-gauge dead soft sterling wire
• 20-gauge dead soft sterling wire. 30"
• 22-gauge dead soft sterling wire, 23"
• Sterling silver chain, with links that accommodate 18-gauge wwe, 10"
• Round nose pliers
• Flat or chain nose pliers
• Bail making pliers (optional)
• Flush cutters
• Chasing hammer
3 Repeat Steps 1-2 three more times to form a chain. You can choose to make the pattern asymmetrical if you wish, and the pearls can be patterned any way you like. Make sure that the end links are the wrapped links from Step 1. otherwise the strands may not lie correctly.
6 Wrap the other side of the pearl onto one of the end links of the sterling chain. Repeat with the other pearl. Find the center of the length of chain, and cut out one link. Cut a 2Vi" piece of 18g wire and lightly hammer tie tip of one end. Make a hook with round nose pliers. (See Wire Basics)
4 Continue repeating Steps 1-2 to make six wrapped links and three pearl links to make the longer bottom strand. Make sure the two strands drape and mingle comfortably.
7 Make a loop a: the tail end of the hook and slip one end link of the chain into it. Coil the wire up the inside of the hook, capturing the chain In the loop. Lightly hammer the curved part of the hook.
ICut ten 3" lengths of 20g wire. At about 1" on one of them, use round nose pliers to make a loop, and lightly flatten the tail with the hammer. You may have to file the end lightly. Coil the tail down the wire abcut V4" Do this semi-loosely and curvy. Repeat on the other side. The tails should meet comfortably in the middle
2 Cut nine lengths ol 22g wire.
With one of these lengths, string a pearl, and make wrapped k»p on one side. Begin a wrapped loop on the other side, and before completing it. attach it to the link made in Step 1
5 Slide one of the remaining pearls onto a 2Vi~ wire, form a loop, and bang one end loop from each of the finished strands onto that loap. Finish the wire wrap. Don't wrap the other end of the wire yet. Repeat this step with the last pearl, hooking the other ends of the strands into the loop.
8 With the other 2Vi' piece of 18g wire, begin a wrapped loop, slip the remaining end link of the chain into the loop, and finish the wrap Loop the remaining wire around the round nose pliers at a position that will Rive you an eye large enough for the hook. Wrap the tail toward the chain, and lightly hammer the eye. Q
Lynda Fullerton has been creating jewelry for about eight years. She's most interested in what can be done with wire, tools, and beads without using fire. She's also gets her "fire fix" through welding. Lynda loves to experiment and tends to move quickly from one design to another. You can find more of her mostly one-of-a-kind jewelry at lyndafullerton.com or privateroad. etsy.com.
tools & supplies
■ 12-gauge bright aluminum wire, S
• 25mm-30mm center drilled ceramic discs (holes must be large enough to accommodate 12g wire), 6
• Nylon jaw pliers
• Flush cutters
• Round nose pliers
• Large work surface wilma flintstone cuff
Chunky ceramic beads framed with aluminum wire.
By Eva Marie Sherman
These beautiful seafoam green ceramic beads were just begging to be made into a statement piece. So, with a little wire wrapping ingenuity, I came up with a way to wear them on my wrist. Nothing shy or unassuming about these bracelets, they will get you noticed! Wilma would be so proud!
2 Bend the wire up 90° with round nose pliers to form an "L" next to the first bead on the left On the right side, about 1" away from la?t bead, gently bend the wire down 90° with your fingers to keep the beads from sliding off.
5 Repeat Steps 3-4 until you reach the end of the beads
3 Beginning at the left side, wrap the wire over the top of the first bead, and down in between the first and second bead Coil around the wire between the first and second bead for one full rotation, making sure to keep the coils tightly together The wire will now be pointing down.
6 Trim the wire on the side so it doesn't show from the top. or scratch from the bottom, Using the nylon law pliers, gently close the end of the wire. You will now begin working right to left
1 Straighten the wire gently between your fingers, aid mark the center of wire with a Sharpie. Slide the ceramic beads to the center of the wire. For an average wrist size (6") the total overall length should be 5".
4 Slide the second bead over While holding the first and second bead together, wrap the wire under the bottom of the second beac Coil around the wire between the secord and third bead for one full rotation. The wre will be facing up.
7 Take the wire on the right, and wrap it over the top of bead 6. Bring it down over the top of the existing coil. Make a full rotation over the top of the existing coll. The wire will be facing down.
8 Wrap the wire under the bottom of bead 5, and go over the top of the coll between beads 4 ard 5. Make another coil over the top. and fully rotate the wire so it is facing up.
9 Continue wrapping repeating Steps 7-8 until you reach Bead 1. Trim the wire to 3".
Wire Tips:
• The most challenging part of this project is to get the wire to stay over the top and bottom of the bead instead of sliding down over the front of the bead. In order to avoid this, you must continually hold the wire ir. place with your thumb while wrapping.
Aluminum wire is very soft and scratches easily. To avoid wire markings, work with your fingers as much as possible.
Loop the wire for two full rotations.
1 Insert the tail between the first I bead and the first wire, and gently pull the wire through the space. If the space is too small to accommodate the wire, gently enlarge the loop with the round nose pliers.
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