By Beth Helberg
I hate wasting silver, and it always bothered me that judging the length of a Viking Knit piece was a best-guess situation. I found a way to draw my chain right up to within a W of my work on the Allen wrench, and this eliminated guesswork as to the length of my pieces. Indirectly, it also led to this bracelet design when I was playing with some samples for my Viking knit class. With a few increases, some shaping, and with some crystal bling, this bangle was born!
Editor's note: This project requires a good working knowledge of Viking knit. To learn Viking knit, please see "Trichinopoly Chainwork" by Kathleen Pierce in the Winter 2009 issue of Step by Step Wire ¡ewelry, or download the project at ivww.interweavestore.com.
TOOLS & SUPPLES
• 24-gauge round sterling wire, at least ft troy oz. (24')
• 26-gauge round sterling wire, about 6'
• Dark green 4mm bicone crystals,12
• Light green 3mm bicone crystals, 12
• Dark red 6mm bicone crystals, 3
• Red 4mm bicone crystals, 16
• Flush cutters
• Chain nose pliers
• Bent nose pliers for shaping (optional)
Photo of finished piece by Jim lawson, all other photos courtesy of the author.
9 Draw through the next hole with your work still on the mandrel. Stop when it cannot be drawn further and pull it back out. You may need to draw through one smaller hole yet, depending on the appearance of your work after the second draw.
H Work single Viking knit six-around until your piece measures about 5 "-6", depending on your wrist size. Leave about 1" of knitting still around the wrench, and carefully bring the work through the first appropriate hole on the drawplate, until the drawplate is almost touching the end of the wrench. You will feel when it is time to stop, because the work will grab the mandrel, and you will not be able to advance the plate any further. Carefully pull it back out.
A When your work is the correct ^ length, remove the temporary wire, replace the work on the mandrel, and begin a new wire about 5' long. Work one or two rounds to secure it. Remove the work from the wrench.
"7 For the next round, work Viking * knit as usual, going around every loop, including the three new loops you made. You should have a total of nine stitches. Keep the work as even as possible.
C The work will be increased from ** six stitches to nine stitches in this next round. As you work these stitches, use your non-dominant thumb to gently press the stitches out a bit. Work two stitches as usual, then make a loop in the next rib. This is an "increase." You should now have seven loops around.
O This round increases the work ** from nine to 12 stitches. Work three normal stitches, work a loop in the next rib. Repeat two more times, and double check that you have 12 stitches. Remember to gently push the stitches out, gently flaring the work.
O Remove the work from the ** wrench. Wrap it around your wrist to check the measurement. You should be able to have the drawn ends touch and still be able to remove your hand. Use scrap wire to temporarily hold the ends together. Add more knit and draw again if necessary to add more length.
a Work another two stitches ^ as usual, and make a loop (increase) in the next rib. You will now have eight loops around. Work two more normal stitches, make an increase in the next rib, and you should have nine loops total.
Q Work one normal round of 12
stitches. Keep using your thumb to push the work out, flaring it into the bell shape.
The last round of increases will leave you with 16 stitches. Work three normal stitches, work a loop in the next rib. Repeat this three more times, and check that you have 16 stitches. Work one last round of 16 normal stitches. Do not clip the wire.
Gently compress all around the trumpet with your fingers Do not be afraid to really squeeze the work.
1 A For holly, cut a 4' length of ^ 26g wire. Alternately string four 3mm and 4mm crystals. Center them on the wire, make a loop with the crystals, and twist two times to secure. Make another leaf on each of the wire tails, as close to the first as possible.
■f O Stretch the trumpet open again with your fingers, 1 elongating it slightly. Using the pointed end of bent nose pliers, push around the bell, opening it up and flaring it. You may need to repeat compressing and opening a few times to get the stitches evened out, Since the work can no longer go through a drawplate because of the flare, your fingers are doing the work of the drawplate.
"I C Take the starting end of the knitting and feed it into the bell. Use 1 ^ scrap wire to hold the piece together while you double check the size. Remove the scrap wire. Bring each end of the holly wire through the bracelet so that it penetrates the starting end, and holds it in place. Using a hole next to where the wire came out, go back through BOTH ends of the bracelet, coming back through as close to the leaves as possible. Pull on both ends to snug the wires. Wrap the shorter wire under the leaves twice, and clip the end closely.
H O Pick up one 4mm crystal, and slide it next to the last stitch made. The picture shows this with a blue bead. Carefully make the next stitch, being careful not to break the crystal. Make the stitch in two separate motions: first, pull the wire straight across the piece, and when the wire is snug, then finish making the loop, Repeat around the bell until all 16 crystals are secured. Clip the wire, and leave a tail of about Vb". File the end, and fold this tail down around the wire.
Use the other wire to pick up one 6mm crystal. Slide the crystal up to the leaves, and wrap the wire behind a leaf to secure. Repeat two more times, each time going behind a different leaf. Wrap around entire assembly two times, and clip wire close to the work. ^
Beth Helberg
Metal allergies and a limited budget introduced Beth to the joys of jewelry making. Now hopelessly addicted, she spends every free minute either
_ playing with wire or beads, or frequenting her new second home—her local bead store. She can be reached at bethplease^gmail.com.
Check out stepbystepwire. com to see how to make this variation with a bowf
ORfti/tipS
• For these explanations, "stitch" refers to the looped portion of the wire and "rib" refers to the straight portion between loops. For example, a piece worked in six-around has six stitches, and six ribs. A "round" is working one stitch in every stitch one time,
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